Maeva Abrial, artisan shoemakerMaeva Abrial, artisan shoemaker, creates her brand ABRIAL CHAUSSURES
©Maeva Abrial, artisan shoemaker|Maeva Abrial

Meeting with Maeva Abrial, the cobbler

She has created her own brand: ABRIAL Chaussures

Maeva was born in Tence, left to explore other horizons and returned to her native village to set up her boutique shoemaking workshop and create her own brand: ABRIAL – Création chaussures artisanales.

The story doesn’t end there. Her workshop is located in an old sawmill dating back to the 50s, which belonged to her paternal grandfather.
This is where Maeva makes and designs her shoes.

We show you why Haut Lignon is a land of women’s craftsmanship

Françoise Broussard Published on 23 September 2024

How did you get into shoes?

Maeva: 

I studied History and Anthropology at university, but I could see that it wasn’t really going to work out. I’ve always loved the visual arts, combining the manual and the creative.

I started with a discovery internship. I went to Italy to do a European voluntary service with a bootmaker, Giovanni Battista Bertollo.
When I got back, I wanted to train. But in France, there aren’t really any schools that teach you how to make shoes from A to Z, apart from the Compagnons du devoir, a course that teaches you how to make made-to-measure shoes using traditional techniques, but which remains in the luxury sector.

So first I took a CAP in shoe repair, then a year’s training with a craftsman to learn leather techniques, and finally a year at a fashion design school.

I discovered the world of fashion, design and style research. I did my end-of-year internship with a bootmaker at the Strasbourg Opera, which enabled me to acquire more precise manufacturing techniques.
After that, I worked for 4 years at the Lyon Opera.

I was intermittent. I was on assignment.
So I had time, no stress, tothink about setting up my own workshop.
“I wanted to make my own sauce!

With these mixtures of techniques and worlds, I was able to launch my own brand.
The inactive family sawmill was also an opportunity to launch my business. In 2020, when everything was shut down…, I had the materials and I built my workshop!

What I liked was that everyone had their own universe, their own space, their own little workshop…

There was always something different!

What kind of shoes do you make?

Maeva:

“I started with sandals, which require less technique.
I have three collections inspired by each other: sandals, sneakers and dress shoes.

The spirit of the brand: to revisit timeless, fundamental models.

My inspiration for the sneakers: the 1st Nike models from the 70s.
There’s a retro feel to the sandals.

There’s awomen’s and men’s sneakercollection.”

With what materials? 

In your workshop, we see leather in every color…

The shoes are made entirely of leather.
It’s important to choose the right leathers: calfskin, cowhide, lambskin or goatskin.
I travel to my suppliers in Romans. The leather comes from Italy or France.
The soles are either leather or rubber, with wedges, heels or studs.

Every pair of shoes is unique?

Maeva:

“Each model is made to order and is customizable and entirely handmade.

You can choose the color of the leather, as well as the style of sole, whether wedge or leather.

For sneakers, you can also choose the color of the rubber.

All my models are customizable. We start with a prototype that I design. All my models are original creations.

In short, just as you like!

What are the stages? for manufacturing

It takes about fifteen hours to make a pair of sneakers. The same goes for derbies.
I start with the design (drawing, sketching), then the full-size pattern-making, then the prototype trials and I have to develop them in all sizes for fittings.

What’s your favorite part of the process?

Everything! There are more meticulous stages when working on the leather upper, and more physical ones when working on the sole.
I love creating new models, but I also love talking to customers about my work! I’ve recently bought a sewing machine for repairs, so I can expand my shoemaking business.

Do you also need beautiful machines?

Maeva: 

“I use vintage machines.

I have two sewing machines, one for sewing the soles and another for assembling the upper.

And then I have two shoemaker’s machines: a finishing bench for sanding the soles and a press.”

It's a far cry from industrial manufacturing! Is there really an eco-responsible approach?

Maeva:

“It’s safe! All the classic leathers are made in France or Italy. For the shine, the colored leathers, I buy end of series, the collections vary according to fashion.

The lining leathers are vegetable-tanned and chrome-free for healthier foot contact.
The shoes last over time, and all models are resoleable.

When people come to me, they’re mainly people who want to consume in a sustainable and thoughtful way. They’re generally between 30 and 60 years old and want to make ethical purchases.

There aren’t many craftsmen making shoes any more. A few small factories have kept the tradition alive, such as Le Soulor and J.M. Weston.
Most French luxury brands are made in factories in Portugal generally.”

The boutique workshop 

At 40 rue d’Annonay in Tence, Maeva’s workshop is open all year round on Thursdays from 9am to 5:30pm, or by appointment . You can meet her, discover her collections and why not have a little fitting?
You can reach her by telephone on 06 33 74 67 36.

Gone is the smell of wood from her grandfather’s sawmill, replaced by the scent of leather